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Litterbox Tips
If your cat won't use the litterbox, you and the cat indeed have a
problem! This isn't acceptable indoor feline behavior! Before attempting
to change this behavior, a trip to the vet to assure that the behavior
isn't caused by illness is in order. Once sure there is no illness, you
can proceed to help the cat reestablish normal litterbox habits.
As a preventive measure, it is advised to have the cat spayed/neutered
before they are reaching maturity (generally before 6 months). Whether
male or female, a cat can feel territorial stresses and cause the cat to
spray or mark their territory. There are many rescuers who, based on
their experiences in rescuing cats with litterbox problems, firmly
believe that cats might be more prone to having litterbox problems after
being declawed, though veterinarians do not generally agree that this is
the case. If at all possible, we suggest that you
refrain from declawing
the cat. There are some things you can do as alternatives to declawing.
If house soiling is a problem, the cat will need to first be vetted to
make sure there isn't any kind of medical condition. There is a danger
of FUS (Feline Uremic Syndrome) which can cause a cat to deteriorate
quite quickly and results from urinary tract blockage. After vetting,
the cat needs to be confined to a smaller room in order to retrain. The
best room would be one without carpeting, such as a bathroom. Confine
the cat to this room while an enzymatic cleaner can be used to clean the
areas in the house where the soiling has been a problem. It is a good
idea to keep the cat confined to this small area for a week and if there
are no problems then gradually increase the amount of space that the cat
is allowed to roam making sure to save the troubled rooms for last. If
the cat begins the soiling again go back to the confining to the small
room and start the process over again.
Before beginning to allow the cat back out into the whole house, the
reason for the soiling will need to be corrected. First check: Are they
clean enough (being scooped at least daily)? Some cats are very picky
and will not use a box that has anything in it. Is the litter fresh but
not to fragrant and of a desirable texture? Are there enough boxes for
all the cats in the home? There should be a litterbox for each cat in
the home and there should be boxes on all levels of the home that the
cat is allowed to roam.
It is also important to observe if there are any stray cats outdoors
that are spraying by any windows or doors. Even though this is outdoors,
the cat smells this and it may cause the cat to mark their own
territory, also. A multi-cat household may have a compounded problem,
but there are some more steps that can be taken to deal with it.
Remember always that the key to proper litterbox habits is keeping the
litterbox a pleasurable place to go. Make sure that the litter is
scooped daily at least, NOT heavily perfumed and a texture that the cat
likes. Generally scoopable and regular clay litters are best. If trying
others be sure to leave out the old type and see what the cat prefers to
use. The cat may react differently to covered boxes versus uncovered
boxes. Many cats won't like to be cornered into a covered litterbox
while others prefer the privacy that these boxes offer. Some cats are
frightened by the noise made by the "automatic" litterboxes as the clean
themselves.
Litter should generally be changed (emptying and cleaning box then
refilling with fresh, new litter) twice a week if using clay and once a
week if using scoopable. If multiple cats are using the boxes (or seem
to prefer one box) this will need to be done more often.
Spraying is a territorial response. If your cat hasn't been neutered and
is spraying your first step should be to get him neutered immediately
before the spraying becomes a habit. It can take as long as 6 weeks for
the hormone level to flush out of the system so be prepared that the
spraying won't stop overnight, but the urge to mark territory will
gradually disappear.
If your cat is neutered and suddenly begins to spray it may be caused by
the presence (odor, view, or sound) of a free roaming cat outdoors which
is triggering a territorial response. Visual contact with an outside
intruder, wafting odor, or the sound of cat calling may trigger
territorial spraying in some cats. Close the blinds for a few days to
prevent visual contact and get some cat repellant from your pet store or
nursery to put down around the perimeter of your home to deter the
intruder.
When fresh urine comes out of the body, it is relatively clean, with
little bacteria in the acid state. As the urine dries, it turns into
alkaline salts, in which bacteria flourish and give off an odor. You
should first treat an old urine stain with an acid solution (such as
vinegar and water), which would offset the alkaline and bring the stain
to a neutral pH. You should then apply an enzyme treatment to destroy
the bacteria and eliminate the smell.
Since fresh urine is acid, adding vinegar doesn't help: It actually sets
the stain in an acid state. In essence, you have given the urine more
power to turn into alkaline state and smell. Once in alkaline state, the
stain will attract moisture out of the air, activating salts and
bacteria and smelling again and again.
Never add vinegar to a fresh urine spill. Instead, blot with warm water
and a towel several times. Follow with a mild dish detergent, one
teaspoon per quart of water, and continue to rinse and dry. Finally, add
an enzyme treatment to eat any bacteria that may be present. Enzyme
treatments are manufactured under many different names and are available
in pet supply stores and catalogs. A remarkable product that appears to
work is called "Kritter Spritz" - it isn't enzymatic and works on by
biodegrading with safe normal bacteria.
Cats will return to previous marked areas where they pick up their own
scent so it is important to locate and eliminate every single stain.
Ordinary housecleaners won't eliminate the smell to a cat's nose, even
if humans can't smell it. You will need to use a specific enzyme
cleaner. Follow directions carefully, saturate the area and allow to air
dry. The stain will smell noticeably worse when it's damp, but as it
dries out the enzymes deal with the source of odor. If the stains have
occurred on carpet, you will need to saturate the area thoroughly to get
into the carpet padding. You may also need to get a flourescent
blacklight to find all the urine stains. Cat urine glows under a
blacklight in a darkened room making it easier to find every stain. A
lot of other things also glow, but when in doubt treat the area in
question!
Discouraging Litterbox Misbehavior - from the Veterinary Information
Network
Thinking outside the Litterbox: Solving
Feline House Soiling
Housesoiling - from Cats International
Feline House Soiling - from the Veterinary Information Network
Planet Urine -
This is the definitive Encyclo-Pee-dia!
Litterbox Problem
Explanations & Solutions - from PlanetUrine.com
Defining the litterbox problem - from the Veterinary Information
Network
Litterbox Problems in Multi-Cat Households - From Cat Fanciers
Association
Inappropriate
Elimination - Dr. Newman, DVM
When
Good Cats Do Bad Things - From MarVista Veterinary Clinic
Inappropriate Elimination in Cats VetMedCenter
Urine Spraying
What is the
difference between spraying and urinating, and how do you deal with it?
What is
Territorial Spraying?
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